Italy

Lake Garda

Monte Spino

Wall of the Marmere

WALL OF THE MARMERE

detail of climbing routes

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The routes are listed from right to left, the names are written at the base of the wall. For the routes reaching the ridge, the return can take place either via the west side, passing via the clevis called Buco del Tedesco, or the east side, passing via the clevis called Buco del Gatto.

On some routes, as well as 10 referrals, it is useful to have some friend.

Route Gigiat

Monopitch of 35 m, difficulty V+, V.

Route La Befana

Length: 160 m, on 4 lengths, then you continue on route Gnaccarini-Bosio, with 100 m more in common, up to the ridge.

Difficulty: VI+

L1, L2, L3 L4: You climb up on plates with holes, with stops equipped with bolts and chains (40 m length each).

Route Yeti

Length: 60 m, on 2 lengths; descent on two double ropes of 25 m each.

Difficulty: III, VI

L1: Climb straight ahead for a few easy meters (III), then diagonally to the left and then straight up to the first stop (VI).

L2: You traverse briefly to the left, then climb diagonally left up to the stop (V+).

Route Orecchie d'Orso

Length: 150 m, on 4 lengths; you can descend by double ropes, or go up to the ridge on easy rocks.

Difficulty: VI / A1

L1: You start on a beautiful smooth plaque and then move right onto a deep groove (45 m, V-, IV, 3 spits).

L2: You climb a second plaque then turn left into a small dihedral, pointing to a wall on the right (35 m, V, IV, 5 spits, 1 nail).

L3: You climb diagonally left along a crack and then on a little smooth plaque (30 m, VI / A1, 6 spits).

L4: You follow a crack then you point to a straight blade that you climb along the left edge (35 m, VI / A1, 6 spits and 1 nail).

Route Galaxia

Length: 140 m, on 4 lengths, then you continue on route Gnaccarini-Bosio, with 100 m more in common, up to the ridge, or you descend by double ropes.

Difficulty: From IV+ to VI+

L1: You start under a large roof obliquely to the left, climbing up to its highest point to the left (40 m, IV+).

L2: You continue on the wall, going obliquely to the right at the beginning of some plaques (30 m, V+).

L3: You deviate briefly to the left, to climb up the edge of a plate, then you pass a small dihedral and continue on the plate (40 m, V+).

L4: You oblique to the right on plates, reaching route Gnaccarini-Bosioccarini-Bosio (30 m, VI+).

Route Gnaccarini-Bosio

Length: 280 m, on 10 lenghts, reaching the ridge

Difficulty: III, IV+, steps of V- and V

L1: You start along an oblique dihedral (red signs) pointing to a tree that you bypass on the right (30 m, III+, V).

L2: You go up along the beautiful plate, first obliquely right, then left, up to a tree (40 m, IV, IV+).

L3: You continue along a small crack on the plaque, up to a cliff (20 m, IV+).

L4: You climb the cliff and continue on the plaque (25 m, V-, IV+).

L5: You go up on an easy plaque, up to the niche where you find the route book (25 m, III).

L6, L7: You climb easily, with vegetation, up to a small overhang (35 m and 25 m, II).

L8: You go past the cliff and continue on a small dihedral (30 m, III).

L9, L10: You go up on plaque up to the summit cross (25 m and 25 m, III).

Route Rogerway

Length: 250 m, on 6 lengths, reaching the ridge.

Difficulty: VI and A0

L1: You start at the lowest point of the wall, before the trail goes up towards the Buco del Gatto; go up a short length to the base of a small dihedral that you climb up (25 m, V-, IV).

L2: You oblique to the left, then right, then climb up a plaque and reach some trees (50 m, III, IV).

L3: You climb diagonally left on plaques, pass a cliff, and then a plate, after which you come under a roof of which you reach the right end (50 m, V, VI+).

L4: You oblique to the right, pass a roof and a plaque and reach some trees (50 m, VI, V, 2 nails).

L5: You reach to the left the base of a plaque and you climb it up on the right, pointing to some trees, then you turn left, you run a pendulum to the left, then climb up other plaques (50 m, V, VI, A0).

L6: You climb straight ahead to reach the right side of a roof (30 m, VI, V).

You reach the ridge, just left of the summit.

Route La diagonale dei Sogni

Length: 230 m, on 6 lengths, reaching the ridge.

Difficulty: From IV to VI+

L1: You oblique slightly to the left and then climb straight (45 m, V, IV).

L2, L3, L4: You climb by pure grip on a long and compact slab (45 m, V, VI+; 40 m, IV+, 2 nails; 40 m, IV, V, 2 nails).

L5: You reach the base of a chimney, that you climb up, then exit on the right (40 m, IV, VI, 2 nails).

L6: You oblique to the right, reaching the route Profumo d'Oriente, along which you reaches the ridge (20 m, V, 1 nail).

Route Goccia d'Acqua

Length: 150 m

Difficulty: V and V+

Unfrequented route, rising straight from the point where a metal cable hangs, residue of a planned ferrata, later abandoned. It intersects the routes La Diagonale dei Sogni and Rogerway, reaching the ridge.

Route Profumo d'Oriente

Length: 240 m, on 6 lengths, reaching the ridge

Difficulty: VII- mandatory, and A1

L1: Climb straight ahead, then passing a wall (55 m, VI-, VI+, VII-).

L2: You get to the base of another wall, that you follow along to the left for a few meters, then climb it, then oblique to the left (55 m, VI+, V, VI).

L3: You climb straight ahead for a few meters and turn right up to an overhang that can be overcome with the help of cliffs (30 m, VI+, A1).

L4: You climb to the left on yet another roof, that you pass at its upper left end, then turn right (45 m, V+).

L5: You climb obliquely to the left, passing between a grove and a roof (60m, V+, VI).

L6: On easy rocks, you reach the ridge (I, II).

Route Mariolino

Length: 220 m

Difficulty: V+

You start on the left part of the wall in correspondence of a vertical plate (nail). You climb a beautiful dihedral of about 120 m, after which you cross to the right along a steep, thus reaching the ridge.

Route Big Foot

Length: 65 m, on 2 lengths, continuing then along route Mariolino.

Difficulty: Up to VI+

L1: You start left of the route Mariolino (engraved arrow). Climb a groove then go straight, then turn right (IV, V, III).

L2: You traverse left for a few meters, then climb straight by bending to the left in the end (VI+).

By going up obliquely to the right (V) you reach the route Mariolino at about one third of its length, and continue there.

Route www.tib.it

Length: 195 m, on 5 lengths, reaching the ridge

Difficulty: Up to VII-

L1: You start left of the route Big Foot, going up to a small grassy ledge. You climb up some plaques and then to the left of them, you enter a dihedral, that you climb up (35 m, V-, VI-, IV).

L2: You continue in the dihedral and come out at the base of a roof, which you climb after a short traverse to the right, then you continue left on plaques, up to the base of another large roof (35 m, V+, V).

L3: You keep to the left of the roof, and then climb on a plaque, then to the right of this you climb up a rib, then a plaque again (35 m, V, V+).

L4: You climb up on a plaque, up to a small terrace (40 m, VI, VI-).

L5: You turn right, cross a rib, you reach the base of a roof and pass it, then pass yet another roof, then reach the stop (50 m, V-, VI+, VII-, 2 nails).

On easy rocks and woods you reach the ridge.